Thursday, January 31, 2013

George Orwell and Indian temples


A completely chanceful stumble on this delightfully engaging essay by George Orwell “The Moon Under Watermade my keyboard keys clutter after a very long interval on an entirely unrelated topic.

I would suggest to anyone who is reading this to read the said Orwell’s essay first (no, not to pick on this) to understand the trigger for this blog.

I love going to temples. I’m not one of the temple fanatics (if there is such an expression) who are obsessive about visiting every single temple in their vicinity. By a temple I mean everything from a grand,old,1000 year old one to the “ Theru mukku Pillaiyar Kovils”,  to the neem trees streaked with so much sandalwood paste that you wouldn’t be wrong in mistaking them for sandalwood trees. More the merrier they’d say!!

What irks me is when the same “more the merrier” idea is applied to the number of deities in a temple. I steer clear of temples with so many obscurely named deities whose names barely register in my mind. I stare in disbelief when somebody comes up to me barely able to contain his/her excitement  and rattles off the names of 10 different deities and say that there is a new temple around the corner with all of them and so one can get all the blessings at the same time.I think this trend started around the time when the idea of going to a temple changed from feeling peaceful to literally counting your blessings.  
Here is what most temples feel like. Some of them make me feel like I’m standing in a bathroom because the management decided that the weary old stone floor has to be replaced with shiny and gaudy bathroom tiles. Some others make me feel like I’m entering a zoo or a museum with their caged waiting rooms and queues enclosed within iron bars. Passing through the deities with their special powers advertised makes me feel like I’m in a detergent aisle of a supermarket. Finally a temple with 10 different gods with 100 levels of power makes me think I’m watching a Bollywood multi starrer.

If anyone knows of one temple that is old, with beautiful sculptures, with only the main god and goddess, a kind and pleasant priest who remains so no matter how much lands on his plate, which has a corner where I can sit ,close my eyes and lose myself to the mystery of the universe without the fear of being jostled , feels cool and smells divine no matter how hot it is and how foul it smells outside and makes me feel that not everything is wrong with the world after all, I should be glad to hear of it, even if it is situated in some far flung, remote corner of the country. The scene may differ, but the yearning is the same.

1 comment:

Sriram said...

Oh beautiful essay that was! *mental note to visit the place and down a few drinks if it still exists*

My stance on temples remains rather similar. I have this interest in the temples themselves, their history and architecture and the general 'feel' of being in a place which has served the same purpose over centuries and changing just a little bit with each generation. Infact, I maintain that if my folks didn't mistake my interest in old temples for religiousness, my somewhat liberal thoughts and generalised version of spirituality would have mostly gotten me branded an Atheist by the folks at home.

Spot on with the tiles! The reason they do it is because the temple feels different to someone who goes/works there every day - and is quite different from the refreshingly ancient charm that appeals to people like us who visit it specifically for that. Hence the attempt at bringing some cheerful ambiance to what might have probably seemed gloomy after a while. However, if they chose alternatives like proper lighting or polishing the stone rather than plaster it with garish blue tiles, it'd be great :D Quite a common observation with TN temples in general. Colour-painted gopurams reminiscent of teething toys for kids, ugh!

Ended up being a long comment.. it reminded me of places and temples I had been to :)